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The passages aren't too difficult, but it took some trial and error to get it right. Click on any picture to see a larger view.
The first modification was to weld a lump on the side of the case for the front oil
pump stud to thread into. This is hopefully a nice looking bead that won't spoil
the looks of the motor. Then you fill and relocate the 2 mounting holes nearest the
flywheels. I did this with threaded aluminum rod. I believe I just tapped the
holes out to 1/4-20 and the rod likewise. Three mounting holes on the oil pump,
(middle and both rear), just hang in the air, so I just used a bolts and nuts and
hold it together, without anchoring it to the case. This doesn't seem to cause a
problem. There is a small amount of weeping of oil, but I think better gasketing
could fix that. I just have to pull the whole engine to do that on Frankie.
The oil passages went like this:
The supply line enters the pump normally, then the pressure feed to the engine from
the pump almost exactly lines up with the old front mounting hole for the "45" pump.
but there isn't enough metal to run the hole down where I wanted it. so I drilled
out the mounting hole oversize and sleeved it with a piece of gas line, 5/16 inch, I
think(outside diameter). This is the first step for getting oil to the big end.
I next drilled 2 holes into the engine case. These start in the gasket surface
where the timing cover mates. The one forward of the breather tower (labeled "A"),
is perpendicular to the gasket surface and goes in one to two inches? It will
connect the vertical piece of gas line with the next drilling we make. It isn't
critical how deep as long as it meets the second drilling and doesn't go into the
flywheel chamber.
The second drilling (labeled "B"), is at an angle and it starts on the gasket
surface behind the breather tower. It will miss the hole for the breather tower and
intersect the first drilling. The starting point of this second drilling is
critical. It must line up with the existing pressure feed drilling to the main
shaft in the cam cover. You need to look at the cam cover and figure out how the
routing of the oil passages from the old supply pump to the big end. You will see a
point where it will be possible to drill a hole through the gasket surface area and
tap into these passages. The angular second drilling you will make in the engine
case is going to have to match up with this hole you've made in the cam cover.
This will give you a path for oil to flow to the big end.
It comes up through the sleeved hole, then through the perpendicular drilling in
front of the tower. from there it goes through the angled drilling. The angled
drilling mates to the new hole in the cam cover, and the oil then flows to the big
end.
I made my own gasket for the timing cover to accomodate the new oil passage. And it
is difficult to seal at the feed through hole from engine case to cam cover.
Careful choice of drillings is required so there is some gasket surface to seal
around the passage.
Return oil from the engine to the pump is no problem. The return hole in the case
is enlarged and another is added to match up with the sportster pump. This gets the
return oil into the pump.
The pump is modified to get the oil back to the tank.
What I did was to block the original return passage in the pump and drill 2 holes to
route the return oil to the side of the pump. Here a fitting is screwed in and the
oil returns to the tank, via a old style canister filter, in my case.
Looking at the bottom of the pump body with the bottom plate removed, a long passage
can be seen to run from the return gear chamber to nearly the rear end of the body.
The passage terminates in a vertical drilling. this vertical drilling is tapped and
a set screw is locktited into it. This blocks the old return oil route. Now, at a
convenient location, I chose about halfway between the mounting screw bosses, you
drill two holes.
The first is just adjacent to the passage from the return pump gear chamber to the
now blocked original return passage. This hole is drilled vertically about halfway
through the pump body. Remove any metal between this drilling and the original oil
passage so we have clear passage for return oil. The second drilling will come from
the outer side of the oil pump and intersect this first drilling. The second
drilling is tapped for 1/8"pipe and right angle hose fitting is screwed into it. We
now have a passage for return oil from the engine.
Well here is a look inside the timing chest at where the passages are routed. Also, when the blanking plate is placed where the old supply pump was, it blocks off the original feed to the supply channel to the big end.
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