IBRARY’s comprehensive illustrated booklet on obtaining the best speed & performance from your older side-valve or flathead in-line six-cylinder (L6) engine. Your “obsolete” motor is capable of surprising speed & power, without loss of reliability. The comments and observations are relevant to Dodge & Plymouth 218 & 230, Chrysler & DeSoto 237, 251 & 265, Ford 226, Hudson 232, 262 & 308, Oldsmobile, Pontiac 239, Rambler 196,
Studebaker, &c. L6 side-valve engines, although no specific individual recommendations are made.
It’s the most complete literature you can buy to get the most from your motor. Before making any decisions about modifying (or even rebuilding) your motor, get the best help available, and do it right the first time.
This book is not a re-print of the firing order, options, number of cylinders, serial numbers, casting numbers, rated power, compression ratio, etc. It contains only information that is useful and relevant (no pictures of chrome accessories).
Rather than merely summarize and repeat what you’ve already read by “California Bill”, Frank McGurk and Roger Huntington (which were written 50 years ago), etc. my purpose is explore, explain and detail modification, fine tuning, improvements and modernization using current parts and technology. Use it with your service manual for best results. Not an expert mechanic? You’ll still find many improvements you can do yourself with common hand tools.
I guarantee that you’ll find information in this booklet you’ve never seen before, and which will help you plan and complete your project.
Consider this: if this booklet saves you from making even a single mistake or bad purchase, or gives you one new idea, doesn’t that make this purchase worth while? The price is a very small fraction of what you’ll invest in the motor - plan it more intelligently, and get better results.
have been a
source of performance literature since 1971. Click here for a brief bio on the author: . The advice and suggestions are not reprinted from other articles, magazines, or factory literature and are not available anywhere else, (although some of the data is generally available). Contents so far in the draft version are already 115 pages (over 93,000 words) stapled in paperback to save you printing costs, includes the following subjects, with over 30 black & white illustrations & diagrams, 26 data tables and a sample worksheet.
How much power can I realistically expect to get from my engine?
Siamese (shared) intake and exhaust ports: how do they affect the engine?
; how the parts function, comparison between side-valve and O.H.V. engines.
; design, combustion chambers, port shapes and sizes, valves, dimensions, flaws.
Milled and filled? Ported and relieved?
; what does that mean?
Intake manifold heat?
; which is best: water heat, exhaust heat, or no heat?
; which is best: straight or progressive?
How to modify an aftermarket intake manifold
for better performance with original appearance
Speed equipment; aftermarket parts (both obsolete and current), cams, “split” exhaust manifolds
Aftermarket manifolds; why are there so many types? How are they different? 2 carbs vs. 3 carbs:
which is best, and why?
Carburetors; 1 bbl. vs. 2 bbl. vs. 4 bbl.? How large should the carburetor be, and why?
Nitrous oxide; can it be used? Should it be used? What needs to be done (2,400 words)?
Modern overdrive automatic transmissions; differences between models, shift controls, torque
converter stall speed selection, ratio choices
; what you can do yourself, including:
» Diagnosing and correcting multi-carburetor linkage problems (useful on V8 tri-power engines as well)
» Adapting an Eaton supercharger from a late model V6
» Aftermarket manifolds - why are there so many types? How are they different?
» Making your own multi-carburetor intake manifold
» How large should the carburetor be, and why?
» Planning a stroker crankshaft
» Alternate connecting rod choices
» What is an “I.O.E.” head, and how to plan such a project
» Improved piston design
» Calculating compression distance and ratio
» Up-grading the ignition and tuning the advance curve
» Choosing and installing big valves
» Modifying the ports for better breathing
» Improving the original intake and exhaust manifolds
» Making or adapting headers
» Splitting the original cast-iron exhaust manifolds
» Fabricating a cast header out of common industrial supplies
» Analyze, compare, and select a new or re-ground high-performance cam
» Improving the oil system
» How to predict a safe RPM limit
; showing bore, stroke, rod length.
; listing suppliers of parts & services, etc. both mail and internet.
TRW Part Numbers
; lists many potentially useful obsolete numbers and applications.
Work Sheet sample
; to help you keep records and plan changes to your motor.
Please note: this is not a coffee table book, it is intended to be a research tool for those who seriously want to improve their older L6 motors.
It does not cover L6 OHV engines, such as the 1962-* Chevrolet 194, 215, 230, 250 & 292, Ford 215, 223 & 262 and 144, 170, 200, 250 and 240 & 300, A.M.C. 199, 232 & 258, or Chrysler Slant 6 170, 198 & 225.
A booklet on the 1937-63 Chevrolet “stovebolt” 216, 235 & 261 L6 engines will be available separately, click here for details: .
A booklet on the 1939-63 G.M.C. 228, 236, 248, 256, 270 & 302 L6 light truck engines will be available separately, click here for details: .
It is not a repair manual. If your car won’t start, spark plugs foul, low oil pressure &c. my booklet will not help you. It does not contain information on tune-ups, or explain how to remove, disassemble, clean or restore the engine. If you do not already have this information do not buy this booklet. If your engine is stock and you’re pleased with how it runs now, this booklet is not going to be of much use, although you might find it interesting.
This booklet will be available in 2013. Do not order, all payments will be refunded. Click here to receive notification when this booklet is available: .